Peaches are the new shellfish
At least they were on Sunday July 6th, when the purveyors at the Fulton fish market told us that there was no way that the shellfish we wanted to cook would still be alive come Sunday afternoon. Then they proceed to tell you not to eat any seafood anywhere in NYC, unless it is frozen, dried or canned on Sunday because it most definitely is a week old. So the Creole style seafood boil/bake was quickly converted into a peach smorgasbord.
Since this wasn’t a proper sit down dinner, it got good and messy; real messy. We ate, drank and danced our way into another Monday morning much longer than many expected and in between we succeeded in sweating our asses off while accomplishing a few feats that were though silly/impossible by the naysayers.
Some of the less dangerous attempts we made were a beautiful Tomato and Peach Salad (this was the impetuous for the whole switch to peaches by QV), a sous vide pork loin with crisp kale and confitted baby onions, cous cous with peaches, nuts and love and stuff squash blossoms. (These fine gentlemen are seen double teaming the blossoms)
Some of the more dangerous dishes were involved pickling peaches in all sorts of diabolical ways. In one form the results were pickled then caramelized peaches and burrata, and yes it was delightful.
© 2008 Cassidy DuHon www.duhonphotography.com
I am convinced that sous viding is the best way of cooking meat. Thomas Keller and Nathan M, both have books coming out on the subject in the next year and they are both worth purchasing as the two 4kg pork loins that we cooked to 53C were perfect. A quick blast in the deep fryer to give them a nice maillard crust and gentle slice and we were off to the races.
The big debate for the night was whether or not to trim the fat off the back of the loins before they were seared and sous vide since the heat and time wouldn’t be high/long enough to properly make it dissolve. Here you can see the nice fat cap that was said to be delicious by one or more foreigners who were in attendance.
Here we are in final dressing.
Wine reduction, onions, kale, copper platter and an amp that I had to drive to pick up in Elmira when I was living in Boston, in a Cadillac that was quickly letting me know that its final days were upon us. Table cloth by the genus
This was the star of the night.
These peach halves were poached in a pickling broth based on balsamic vinegar and a ton of sugar. They were spiced with Baliesian long peppers, cloves (just one I am sorry), garlic, red onions and a wee touch of coriander and dill. The flesh held the sweetness well and the bright spice and acid from the pickling made the peaches balanced well. They were then super chilled just before freezing and then caramelized with clarified butter (I know gratuitous) by Parcé to create a nice crisp on the round top. The pickling liquid was reduced by 70% (which subsequently burned the eyes of everyone in the kitchen for the better part of an hour) and then emulsified with xanthan gum to give it a nice stickiness. The burrata was slightly warmed and torn apart, throw in the center and sprinkled with basil. Easily delightful, and worth trying for those of you who are afraid to pickle sweet things give this a shot.