Click here to view the embedded video.

On the first of May we hosted a “luncheon” on the L line of the New York City subway. The subway is a familiar place, providing a necessary means of transportation for many New Yorkers. Its stairwells, turnstiles, platforms, trains and unpredictable elements are all-too-familiar to its dedicated patrons. One begins to know the exact time of travel from one destination to another. One begins to intuit the conditions of a ride, anticipating smooth stretches and knowing when to brace for a jarring turn. Through a series of familiar gestures, presented in commonplace locations in unfamiliar ways, we set out to challenge a habitual experience.

We wanted to serve a meal in a dynamic and strained location, to give ourselves a challenge that could only be overcome through teamwork and partnership. It is with great honor and pride that I say that this event born in the mind of Mr. Cigar in the back of a luxury car somewhere lost in the bowels of Los Angeles came alive when it was brought to team of creative and inspired people below. I am honored to have such good friends and compatriots that can take such ridiculous ideas and bring the into fruition no matter the adversity.

It is with that that I am honored to say thank you to everyone listed here below as this event could not have taken place without your energy, effort and support. No matter how big or small a roll you thought you played without you this would never have happened.

My sincerest thanks go to:

Daniel Castano – founder  – a razor, a shiny knife
Jonny Cigar – Winetology
Mike Lee – Studiofeast
Linda Lou – The Cheeky Chef
Andrew Rosenberg – a razor, a shiny knife
Ronen V – Pictures, Videos, Stories, Friends and Cool Projects

CK
Michelle Cortez
Zach McGeary
Kristen Hager – Snooth.com
Carissa Cirino – Tutus over French Fries
Dominic Musacchio – @dominicjohn
Alex Davidowski – Mirador Studios
Keith Haskel – Videographer
Steph Goralnick – Steph Goralnick Design and Photography
Emily Cavalier – Mouth of the Boarder
Drew Altdoerffer – Photography
Katie Hawthorne
Hannah Newbury
Cathy Erway – Not Eating Out in NY
Chad Griffith – Photography
Michael Opalensk
Simona Picco
Maurcio Vargas - The Blaaahg
Dan Vallejo
Alex Schulten
Andrew Warman
Alexis Ames – nineteen84 Design
Joe Levine – Studiofeast
Marissa Ain
Laura Huben- Studiofeast
Danielle Gould – Food + Tech Connect
Dave Christiansen – Pop-up Studio
Benjamin Lambert – Ben Lambert Chef
Ivana Kottasova
Derrick Yuen – Studiofeast
Soomin Baik – Studiofeast
Mihir Desai – Cross Species
Danny Zlobinsky
Joseph Yoon
Jana Philips
Nora Lidgus
Helena de Pereda
Katherine Wheelock

The Mast Brother’s Chocolate
The Brooklyn Kitchen

We will be releasing our photos and videos over the course of the next week so please stay tuned. We are committed and determined to push ahead, boats against the currents, providing unique and unforgettable experiences… And so we leave you to ponder what might be next…

Michael J Cirino

Founder – a razor, a shiny knife

Welcome to San Francisco - Welcome to the Houseku

We left Chicago exhausted but with a profound sense of accomplishment. We had lost Mayur to rug replacement and some kind of warranty battle with an ice cream maker and we made our way to the smaller of the city’s two airports. Excited by heading home and being able to get some Potbelly’s sandwiches and Chicago style hot dogs before our flight would leave.

Without rest or comfort, just hours after we woke, we fought with all our strength to not overwhelm our conversation with talk of our trip to San Francisco the following weekend. There were many things we had learned over the past 72 hours and many new challenges that lay ahead. Spurred on by the staff of Alinea and our new-found confidence in our recipes, we set forth into reworking our next event to try and overcome that last 20%.

Cathy Erway

It was decided that we would be hosting one large meal in San Francisco as the space was large and majestic with two separate kitchens that could handle the task of serving thirty people twenty-five courses. We would be executing two dishes that required finding 20 liters of liquid nitrogen, which because of work and scheduling issues, we would not able to test until the day of the event.

Daniel was not going to be able to make it, as he had to return Colombia to check on Emilia Romagna and finalize some details for the new restaurant he would be opening in Cartagena that summer called Vera.

Jonny Cigar

Mayur as well had to succumb to the demands of real life and was relegated to cooking with us every night in preparations for the event but was not able to come with us.

In their place were three of the most enjoyable human beings I have ever met, Andrew Rosenberg, Cathy Erway and Jonny Cigar. Along with two San Francisco locals Keiko Takano and Jen Freeman as well as Melissa M. Martin, a friend of a friend who flew in from New Orleans we had assembled a formidable team to once again try to climb this great mountain of a meal.

Andrew Rosenberg

Once again our flight was scheduled to leave at some ungodly hour and having learned from our last experience with TSA, we were much better prepared for travels. It had been three weeks now where I was sleeping less than a handful of hours during any given night and the long sparsely filled flight was the perfect place for me to fall off into oblivion. All of my dreams were laced with frozen spheres of chewy candy canes or licorice syrup and seared scallops fueled by Brian and Akiko’s heated discussion of the best process and procedure for tackling this new menu. Jonny sat quietly a few seats away polishing his tie and reciting what I assumed was French poetry – delicately dancing with the elegant pronunciations in a way that was only possible by a man that learned to speak English in upstate New York farm country.

San Francisco provided us with the exact opposite weather conditions from Chicago, welcoming us with warm sunshine and soft floral sea breezes that made Jonny’s poetry seem all the more salient, I would assume. We picked out another very nice late model Minivan in a glistening shade of metallic dirty and headed off to find the Houseku and home for our final recreation.

In the Kitchen at Alinea

One week ago, I was standing in a kitchen of apartment off Lake Shore. It was the second coldest day of the past 15 years and we were deep into our preparations for our Chicago recreation meal, which would be attended by one of the contributors to the Alinea cookbook and one of the sous chefs I worked with in my short stage.

In a Kitchen on Lake Shore Drive

Today I am standing in a farmers market, with a hint of the ocean breezing past me. It is threatening to become February and I am in short sleeves and with a cold beverage sweating over my fingers. The intense selection of organic and local produce betrayed my current location and deliciousness that the northern California weather was pouring upon us was a brilliant release from the brutality of winter.

Where to find Liquid Nitrogen

It would fall on Jonny and I to handle all of provisioning, as we were the only two cleared to drive the rental Town and Country and use the credit cards. Being San Francisco, the only real problem was choosing which amazing market to frequent and where to find liquid nitrogen.

Being on the west coast was the most delightful way to end this extreme cross-country tour. Except for the fact that we were cooking 6 new dishes that we would not have a chance to test until the moment we were serving them.

In hindsight this seems like an amazingly stupid move. In actuality it was based upon an intense trust of the ability of our knowledge, team and specifically the talent of Brian Sullivan. Brian was extremely proficient in the modern ingredients and techniques and was driven beyond all to recreate these mystical dishes to the exacting letter of the minds that created them. So with just a few long conversations stolen on flights and some casual note taking, the two of us had planned our the execution of the new set of dishes. The vague brutality of the naked ingredients and conceptual executions was exciting in it own right but turned out to be the crowning achievement of this final event.

Proficiency in modern techniques for napping

A gratuitous display of pasta

In the midst of trying to recreate the series of ground breaking dinners that Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz served at their world renowned restaurants, the years of my life ticked over into another decade and with a riotous amount of celebration I became thirty. The week after, the New Year was filled with various celebrations befitting such a monumental accomplishment. My family got together for nice Italian meal on the date of my actual birth and a collection of good friends and I went to Mr. Castaño’s restaurant in midtown the next night for some serious brutality. All of this was wrapped up in a weeklong celebration showered over me by my lovely lady friend. It was a delicious week and I was very grateful for the much need break from the grueling hours of prep, cooking, planning and trying to squeeze in my day job between dinners.

So when Saturday came around I believed it was time to get back to business. We had the first of four test dinners to prepare ourselves for menu changes that Keller and Achatz executed at Alinea and the French Laundry. Being the creative forces that they were they did not just rest on their laurels and serve the same menu at all three restaurants, but they changed about 40% of the menu each meal. This kept us quite busy, writing recipes, researching techniques and then testing everything before our next series of events in Chicago and San Francisco.

We were going to split the menu up into pieces and practice some of the new elements while refining some of the harder elements we had come close to perfecting at our first series of events. Each night we would be serving eight of the twenty-four courses, paired with wine, and as you can see from these photos, a long series of cooking lessons and demonstrations.

Needless to say I was not aware of the fact that on Saturday after our test dinner my lovely lady friend had planned a huge surprise birthday party for me! So as we were cleaning up at the Whisk and Ladle, a steady stream of my friends and loved ones started to roll in carrying presents and copious amount of tasty beverages and treats. The very coy team that had been working with me all night whipped out all of their surprises and converted our dinner from a Keller/Achatz themed evening to a custom made party for me. Resplendent with special treats, fancy cocktails dreamed up by Mayur just for the evening and a very dangerous piñata which severely injured my lovely lady friend.

As luck would have it our good friend Steph Goralnick was there and was able to take some amazing photos of us cooking, the food and just some amazing interactions.

That evening’s menu:
Thomas Keller and Jonathan Benno (chef de cuisine per se):
“Galette” Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras, Italian Pistachio “Financier,” Compressed Red Sensation Pear and Garden Mache

Thomas Keller's Foie Gras "Financier"

Thomas Keller and Cory Lee (chef de cuisine the French Laundry)

Salmon Cornet – Black sesame tuile and red onion crème fraîche
White sturgeon caviar – Lemon verbena gelée, cauliflower

Just seconds before plating all of the evenings Lemon Verbena Gels

Japanese Greenup Abalone – yuzu, tapioca, seaweed, matsutake mushroom broth

Snake River Farm’s “Calotte De Boeuf Grillee,” brisket and cabbage dumplings, horseradish pudding, sour cherries

Thomas Keller's Calotte de boeuf with sour cherry reduction and brisket dumplings

Chocolate S’mores – graham cracker ‘crunch,’ chocolate ‘crémeux,’ creamy “fluff” toasted marshmallow, chocolate emulsion

Thomas Keller's "S'mores"

Grant Achatz

Hot Potato-Cold Potato, Chive, Black Truffle
Black Truffle Explosion, Romaine, Parmesan

A delicate collection of pasta wrapped around a black truffle juice enriched eith butter and topped with wilted romaine lettuce Parmesan and a slice of Black Truffle

Prepared with: Jesse Carter, Cathy Erway, Deborah Gorman, Mark Losinger, Akiko Moorman, Andrew Rosenberg, Mayur Subbarao

Deborah Gorman, Andrew Rosenberg, Cathy Erway

…and a very special thanks and love my lovely lady friend for throwing me the most amazing thirtieth birthday party (week) ever!

For more information please click on the photo and read along with the captions.
All photos taken by Steph Goralnick © 2009

Grant Achatz's - Blackberry, Tobacco, Kola Nut, Nepitella

Time was lost and the minutes that were given to us to accomplish this herculean task seemed to be as inadequate as cocktail umbrellas in a hurricane. Fire was closing in on us from all sides and the pressure of was mounting by the second.

Grant Achatz's - Hot Potato-Cold Potato w/Chive, Butter, Truffle

On slightly warmer than desired morning of December 12th, 2008 we packed up our kitchen and moved it to the sight of the first of our dinners. Until now we had had the foresight to plan our events around the resources available to us: space, time, equipment, etc. In this case these seemingly simple luxuries were not an option.

Our host was gracious and provided us with and amazing amount of space; a beautiful modern kitchen in her amazing brand new north Brooklyn loft. We had access to an incredibly powerful six burner stove with a delicate oven, an unreasonable amount of stainless steel counter-tops (for this part of the world), a dish washer (which in and of itself was a godsend) and a very adequate sub-zero refrigerator who’s only contents were a few bottles of half imbibed liquor, mixers and some butter and cheese.

Menu with prep notes

To accomplish what Chef Keller and Achatz were able to execute at per se we had to supplement these tools with some of our own equipment. A complete list of items that were packed up and carried across Brooklyn would be mind-numbingly boring but here is a non-exhaustive attempt at giving some idea to what was required, in prose. Two immersion circulators, one set for meat and fish and one for vegetables for the first half of the meal and then reset for warming and holding for the second half. A forty liter tank of liquid nitrogen for turning white truffles into a snow, as we did not have the budget to buy fresh white truffles for the celery root puree. Six additional burners were added and stationed in a neighboring room creating a second line, allowing the simultaneously firing consecutive courses. Add on two blow torches, a laser inferred thermometer, a couple of Kitchen-Aids, a dehydrator and a selection of incredibly specific tableware that would make your head spin. We were finally ready to serve twenty-five courses of the most technically difficult and precise food conceived in this century.

Grant Achatz's - Black Truffle Explosion

After set-up was complete and we got the whole process rolling, things went as smoothly as you could imagine. With a few exceptions, we did what we thought was an amazingly admirable job with the time and information we had. As the first night came to a very late end, we were in a place of extreme exhaustion, yet happiness. Feeling confident, we ran head-first into the second dinner. Our mobile kitchen had been refined – almost completely eliminating the kinks that had occurred the first night, which only created space for a whole new set to come in and take their place.

At the end of October we sat down with our good friends Alex and Aki from Ideas in Food and wrote up a menu for a seven course meal that we had been kicking around for a little while. It was a difficult balancing act getting four such divergently creative minds to come together to create seven dishes that would then form together a cohesive meal.

It was also difficult preventing Alex from adding courses when we weren’t looking as he was full of ideas that just weren’t able to be realized in this meal.

This meal was the first of a style of event and also marked the first instance where we felt that we were able to really balance the theatre of the event with the open and warm social atmosphere as well as food that was executed the way we had imagined it.

Menu:
1. Cervidae Tartar with Smoked Onion Rings and Cranberry
2. Chioggia Beets with a Roasted Red and Yellow Beets Pasta Salad, Beet Curd, Aji Amarillo and Passion Fruit
3. Pumpkin Seed Risotto with Coffee and Ham Hock Lardons
4. Olive Oil Poached Halibut over Celery Leaf Gnocchi in a Lobster Mushroom Ragu
5. Skirt steak with Brussels Sprout Kimchi, Apple and Chicharrones
6. Pierre Robert with Walnut Ribbons and Pear Mostarda
7. Lime panna cotta and banana rocks with a banana sponge cake and key lime

Menu Written with Daniel Castaño, Aki Kamozawa & H. Alexander Talbot

Executed with H. Alexander Talbot, Daniel Castaño, Thomas Helmick, Cathy Erway and Kathryn Mahoney

Photos:

Cassidy DuHon
www.duhonphotography.com

Cervidae Tartar with Smoked Onion Rings and Cranberry

The tartar was made from the leg of a deer. We did a coarse chop with a set of knifes and got it into a proper 1980’s tartar texture, and tossed with some olive oil, mustard, salt, pepper and herbs. The onion rings were compressed in smoke brine instead of hot smoking them to give them a nice smoky flavor but to also get them to be nice a crisp. The smoke brine was then carbonated and used to make a tempura batter which also helped carry the smoky flavor as well. A sweet and tart cranberry sauce was put on the plate to help soften the flavors and bring a smooth richness in texture.

Chioggia Beets with a Roasted Red and Yellow Beets Pasta Salad, Beet Curd, Aji Amarillo and Passion Fruit

The Chioggia beets were glued into a sheet and the red and yellow beets were unpeeled using a planner and compressed with a spicy passion fruit dressing under vacuum. They were then cut into cut into linguine shaped strips and dressed on either side of a firm Yellow Beet curd that is vegan.

Alex and Aki pioneered this process of using pectin or sodium alginate and calcium to create a fruit and vegetable glue that can impart flavor while holding things together. Here we created a dressed beet sheet that was sliceable.

Pumpkin Seed Risotto with Coffee and Ham Hock Lardons

The process of pressure cooking pumpkin seeds to give them a risotto like consistence was another invention by Alex and Aki, while on vacation somewhere silly. In this iteration they were cooked with coffee and pumpkin stock. After cooking they were cooled and mounted to order with butter and the cooking liquid, dressed with ham hock lardons which gave the dish a nice smoky flavor. Sous Vide pumpkin balls where topped with a little pumpkin powder and parmesan cheese.

Olive Oil Poached Halibut over Celery Leaf Gnocchi in a Lobster Mushroom Ragu

This is first step in the evolution of a dish we have been working on since august. It was conceived as a surf and turf style dish where the surf is represented by a lightly cooked flaky white fish and served over a earthy flavored pasta dish, here done with celery leaf gnocchi (double cooked potatoes with celery leaf juice used in the beginning of the dough making similar to spinach) in a lobster mushroom beurre blanc.

We have since seen this dish evolve into an almost entirely black dish with black trumpet mushrooms and a black truffle beurre noir, where the fish is topped with black caviar and purple basil is grated on top like cheese. (more to follow on this soon)

Skirt steak with Brussels Sprout Kimchi, Apple and Chicharrones

Double Thick Skirt Steak is a real treat. Skirt Steak is a very flavorful yet cheep cut of beef that when bonded into a double cut piece becomes otherworldly. Fresh off our Korean Pig Roast we really excited to get some of our left over Kimchi into some more forms. In this dish we compressed halved Brussels sprouts in a Kimchi puree to get the flavoring into all of the cracks. We then seared them off on a flattop to create a nice caramelized flat edge to them. This was pared with a Kimchi Chicharrones made with tapioca flour and Kimchi and a touch of water. These crispy vegan treats played the crisp spicy role in this dish while a smooth apple puree lent a touch of sweetness to the bottom of the plating.

Lime panna cotta and banana rocks with a banana sponge cake and key lime

Lime custards for this dish were set in a sphere mold and arraigned with some freshly torn banana sponge cake that Aki made in absentia. We had a little Liquid Nitrogen left from powdering the cheese so we froze whole banana and shattered them into rough chunks and then let them come back to room temperature to give them an insane and unpredictable shape. It was topped with a little key lime zest.

Pierre Robert with Walnut Ribbons and Pear Mostarda

This was/could be my favorite cheese course ever. I know I am partial and everything but it just came together in perfect balance. The Pierre Robert was frozen with Liquid Nitrogen and then crushed into a snow like powder. It was placed next to a candied walnut ribbon and topped with a fruit leather of slightly spiced pear mostarda.

This is just a bad ass picture of our white room with a white table in the back ground and a black shirted tom being a bad ass in the front.

Jonny and I after hours of negotiations

About a month ago I was relaxing with a friend of mine named Jonathan over a long late summer weekend, drinking Korean beers that taste enormously like Miller High Life and enjoying the lack of breeze. We were sitting in my back yard, watching my dog viciously lie in the sun and while talking about nonsense we stumbled into a conversation about dinner and theater.

We were speaking about our plans for the fall and some of the events that we were working on. I explained about the dinner on the first of November and the Autumnal Harvest and Pig roasting extravaganza in October, while Jonathan went on to explain about his plans for acting and writing throughout the fall.

Sometime around the middle of the afternoon it occurred to us that we had nothing yet planned for September and with a little bit of mental wrestling we discovered that there were some dishes that need to be tired and some of his plays that needed to be worked on. It was in that moment that we decided to take a stab at Dinner Theatre.

We wanted a lounge feel, with smoke and cocktails. Jonny thought it important to include some multimedia in the event and decided that he would like to bring in a dance performance as well as the thespian display. I felt strongly about cooking for each act and leaving dessert for the after whisky. What we eventually came up with, through the great help of our friends was this night of Dinner Theatre:

Menu:
Snacks: Candied Bacon, Crisp Garbanzos and Spiced Nuts
1. Dark Roux Sausage Étouffée with Caramelized Onions and Pega
2. Black Tempura Prawns in Green Curry Custard with Key Lime and Cilantro
3. Sweet Braised Short Rib, Country Pâté Brulée over a Horseradish demi-glace with Alsatian Munster whipped fondue, Enoki mushroom and quail yolk purses and charred Japanese scallions
4. Tobacco Crisps with Coffee crème and whisky dipping sauce
5. Cigar – Dominican Metropolitan

Menu created with Daniel Castaño and Eugene Edele.

Executed with Daniel Castaño, Eugene Edele and Cathy Erway; and special thanks to Kristen Hager, Kirsten Larson, Nora Sherman and Leah Viens-Gordon for all of their help in coordination and execution.

Wines and Spirits by Jesse Salazar:
Bodegas Llopart 2005 Rose Brut Reserva Cava
Wingut Hirsch 2006 Riesling Gaisberg
Scholum Project 2007 Naucratis Lost Slough Vineyard
Elmer T Lee Single Barrel – Buffalo Trace

With performances of:
“The Confidence Man” adapted from Herman Melville’s novel by Ben Rose and Jonathan Cristaldi and performed by Jonny Cigar and Abraham Danz.

“Awakening” choreographed by Ori Flomin and performed by Amanda Wells and Ori Flomin

“Kammerspiel!” Written, directed and performed by Jonny Cigar while featuring: Abraham Danz, Phoebe Oglesbee, Zach Bernstein and Another Girl.

Video Installation by Tyler Coburn www.tylercoburn.com

Photos by:

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Christine Wells © 2008 http://christinekwells.blogspot.com/

This is a simple snack that was common place in my childhood in many different forms. Here we just fried the canned Garbanzo beans until crisp and then tossed them with coriander, cumin, cayenne, Balinese long peppers and dried lemon rind. Citrus juice to flavor.

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Gratuitous sausage. These cubes were shaped for the Étouffée. The shape held well, our next goal is to get casing to fit the outside. I imagine it shaped like a wrapped present.

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Due to some dietary restrictions in the audience we were able to provide the Étouffée in both a sausage and more traditional shrimp versions.

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

A collection of black batter dipped shrimp.

This was just a standard tempura batter that we added shrimp brains and sepia for additional flavor and color. After we had it balanced and seasoned we bottled it and carbonated it to 50 psi to too make the batter extra light and crisp. The coating was airy and light and the brains gave the crisp a full flavor.

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Short Ribs with a liberal amount of pâté

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Short Ribs being caramelized

Tim Ireland © 2008
www.irelandstudios.com

This is a shot of the short ribs from our test kitchen the Sunday before the performance. Here we exchange the Obrato for Phyllo dough.

Christine Wells © 2008 http://christinekwells.blogspot.com/

We eventually settled with Enoki and Slow Poach Quail Egg wrapped in soy wrapper and flashed fried crisp and awaiting steak

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

I know it might seem obvious in this setting and maybe even trite being that the performers name is Jonny Cigar but we have been working on this Coffee and Cigarettes style dessert all summer and this iteration seems to work well. With crisp cookies and Cathy’s indulgent Sanka Cream custard the cookies we absolutely delightful on their own but with a dip in the whisky syrup everything became divine.

Tim Ireland © 2008 www.irelandstudios.com

Sunday Dinner July 13th, 2008 – Pasta

I would like to make something clear for those of you who do not know me personally yet; I am Italian. This is not a crucial or super interesting fact about me, but it does lend reasoning and purpose to some of my more eccentric actions. It explains things like; my predilection for serious, non-ironic facial hair, driving manual transmission cars ludicrously fast when I am alone on dark roads at night, having my friends in the kitchen with me getting dirty while telling lies and giggling. Most importantly I think that it might make explaining why we attempted to make seven courses of pasts in the middle of July a little easier.

As with most of these Sunday meal pretty much everything we set out to accomplish we had never done before and that seemed to lend an interesting sense of accomplishment to each course and each non-failure that was well received by those of you who didn’t have to leave early to see an amazing hip hop show. At the end of the whole day we managed an amazing six of the seven courses, letting the Cantaloupe linguine die quickly after the mid meal smoke break and people were mentioning a bit of a sated feeling that was overcoming them.

Here was the menu we attempted:

1. Pea and Carrot Raviolo in consommé freddo
2. Maguro with soy glaze and toasted sesame seeds
3. Smoked Avocado and crab pansotti, Lime beurre blanc
4. Pesto trenette nest with slow poached egg and hot savory whipped cream
5. Mole pappardelle with duck ragu
6. Cantaloupe linguine with white chocolate ganache (abandoned in favor of Mark’s dangerously good whisky sauce, {see below})
7. Whisky and hazelnut manicotti

Menu written with Daniel and Mark
Cooked with Daniel, Mark and Cathy
Without Kristen it would have been impossible.
Thank you all so much.

All photos by: Cathy Erway © 2008 http://noteatingoutinny.com/

Pea and Carrot Raviolo in Consommé Freddo
This dish started, as most on this menu did, at Roberta’s Pizzeria in Flatbush, while Carlo brought out plate after plate of deliciousness and we struggled to obtain beverages. The idea here was to take a standard dish that had absolutely nothing to do with pasta and make it into, well I guess make it into pasta. As obvious as that sounds for this meal it was not as simple as it would seem because most people smarter and more creative than we had already done amazing things with this concept.

So we forgot about it and wrote the rest of the menu and go painfully stuck on this idea of making a cold consommé, and the words ROAST BEEF. Not sure how or why but those two things yielded a desire to make roast beef with peas and carrots. To realize this dream we made carrot ravioli by juice pounds of carrots and reducing the fragrant juice to a syrup and added that to the pasta. Stuffed them with a very soft and fluffy sweet pea and ricotta filling and cooked them very quickly in beef stock. Mark made a shallot and beef stock and we clarified it properly first thing and then dropped it into a salt ice bath to get it super cold. The warm ravioli were then served in the cold broth with a chilled pea greens salad, seen here in great quantity.

Maguro with Soy Glaze and Toasted Sesame Seeds
I am on of those people who firmly believe that marco polo stole pasta when he returned from china in 15th century and that we should appreciate Asian noodles in the same light as Italian noodles.  Here we tried to build a dish that would in flavor resemble just a Maguro sushi presentation but instead of sticky sushi rice we opted for hand rolled wasabi udon noodles. The soy glaze was reduced, sweetened and then thickened and it was amazingly clingy.

Smoked Avocado and Crab Pansotti, Lime Beurre Blanc
Pansotti is a name for triangle shaped stuff pasta from the northern part of Italy. I happen to think the word would sound better with an A or E in the middle of it (ie panasotti or panesotti) but that is not my decision to make, as I no longer invent words for the Italian language.

The smoked avocado and crab stuffing was amazing polarizing, clearly defining the people in the room who enjoyed smoked food and those who didn’t. I happen to enjoy smoked foods, which is a very good reason why this dish made it on to the menu in this form, so I was delighted by the earthy fattiness of the avocado played against the sweet crab meat.

Lime juice was reduce into a syrup and mounted with a delicious amount of butter with a handful of shallots and jalapeños to really brighten up the density that was added by the pasta shell. All and all, if you don’t like smoked food you wouldn’t order this; if you do then it was, from most accounts a pretty strong success.

Pesto Trenette Nest with Slow Poached Egg and Hot Savory Whipped Cream
Trenette is another very specific type of long thin pasta that is traditionally served with a pesto sauce. Instead of serving it with a pesto sauce here with added the pesto directly to the pasta and fried them into little nests. Slow poached a quail egg to 63C topped them with a touch of hot whipped cream that was flavored with mushrooms and sweet onions. The idea was that the runny yolk and the cream would form a sauce and the tasty pasta bits would lend texture to the egg and the whole dish. Hot whipped cream being technically impossible without help from science we progress through this batch of sauce with varied results as we attempted a few different hydrocolloids to get us a nice set of soft peaks. End results were sufficient and the sauce was tasty and had a light but slightly dense mouth feel, but more work needs to be done and maybe a little bit of proper research.

Mole Pappardelle with Duck Ragu
Here we infused the mole sauce directly into the pasta so that the dish could be served dry with just a nice clean pile of braised duck on top. The duck was braised in a broth with the full list of ingredients that would be found in a typical mole sauce. Once painfully soft and delicate it was shredded and the braising liquid was reduced into a glaze and the duck was tossed with this.

A mole sauce was made and then chilled and folded directly in with the eggs when making the pasta, which was then kneaded with a combination of mole powder and flour until it was nice and smooth. Topped with a touch of crema and some cilantro, allowed the light spice of the dried peppers to be felt in both the noodle and the meat and allowed the sauce less dish to stay soft and prevent it from sticking.

I am very proud of the flavors of this dish and of the mole duck in general.

Whisky and Hazelnut Manicotti
Manicotti is a specialty of mine, in so much as it is the first pasta I learned how to make and it is only one from which my recipe originates directly in my family and not a combination of family and professional interactions.

The crepes were made neutral and stuffed with a sweet mascarpone cream. The plate had a touch of dulce de leche on it and the crepe was place on top, covered with Mexican chocolate, toasted hazelnuts and amazing whisky syrup that was unbelievably amazing.

This dish turned out to be small enough to be thought of a light way to end a meal and very well balanced between sweet and savory and was favored by most everyone.