a razor, a shiny knife

  • Published: Jun 11th, 2008
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Thousand Year Old Eggs

Two weekends ago we roasted a pig in my backyard. As much as that sentence stands alone on its own I haven’t fully prepared myself to talk about the nonsense that was that magical event. I am on the other hand ready to speak about these little treats we made after being awake for 36 hours.

I have recently discovered that I love fermented eggs, especially this Chinese variety that glisten in the light and have the most amazing pine flowers. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure the way they make these is by packing them in pot ash and burying them in the ground for 40 days. I am pretty sure that you can make your own my creating a very alkaline water solution somewhere near 5% salt, 5% lye. I am also sure that using lye only requires about 5-7 days but only makes the eggs transparent brown with green yolks instead of this magical black with blue yolk. The final thing that I am positive of is that you have to use duck or quail eggs, chicken eggs definitely don’t work for some reason. This being said I will let you know about turkey, pheasants and any other foul eggs I can in addition to any edible reptile eggs I can get my hands on.

This first batch was cut into eights and piled on a pile of pickled vegetables and topped with friend shallots. Those onions were sharp with vinegar and spice that did an amazing job of offsetting the “egg jelly” flavor of the whites and the crunchy shallots played perfect foil to the creamy rotting of the yolks. A touch of aged soy and scallions rounded it all off nicely. Rotting food can be good.

Thank you Janis for the eggs, thank you Sunny for the drunken pickling, thank you Evan for getting really close to food you are about to eat with a camera.

  • Published: May 23rd, 2008
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Poached Scrambled duck eggs folded with homemade ricotta

Poached Scrambled duck eggs folded with homemade ricotta, olive oil, lemon zest, dirty Sicilian sea salt, black pepper and chives.

At first this idea was thrown out because it seemed silly by people of less creative fortitude then myself. Then they realized that it was really a fantastic way of dealing with our obvious excess of duck eggs and homemade ricotta.

Problem solved.

  • Published: May 8th, 2008
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A start at perfecting the richest types of raviolo.

A start at perfecting the richest types of raviolo.

These larger ravioli were stuffed with homemade ricotta, spinach and pecorino with a slow poached pheasant egg placed in the center. Sautéed ramps in raw cream butter and then crisped the raviolo before glazing them with a duck buerre blanc. Pheasant yolk invading the buerre blanc was the end goal of this whole sauce and shaved Locatelli on top was specifically to add a touch of salt.

This seems to be getting pretty close to the most decadent pasta I can make. I guess I need to preface that by saying that, it is the most decadent  pasta I can make without proper cream, bacon or duck fat. I guess.

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